Exploring the Konkan coastline is an amazing adventure. We usually hear about the "famous" or popular locations like Ganapatipule, but there are hundreds of beautiful spots along the Konkan coastline. One of the best ways to discover these hidden locations is to simply travel along the coastline - almost always trying to keep the coastline on your right. Of course it is also vital that you have the freedom to simply stay put at any particular place that you like, and get to soak in the place.

For those who are familiar with the beaches of Goa, the Konkan coastline is very different. It is made up of rocky cliffs, which fall off abruptly into the sea. The beaches here are not made up of sand, but crushed shell debris that the sea has deposited on the rocks over a period of time. While in Goa one can walk safely for almost 300 m or so in waist-deep water, here on the Konkan coast there are deadly sea-currents, which is why the locals caution tourists against entering the waters.

The big draw of the Konkan coastline are the little sea-side villages and towns where one can wander, visit a few ancient temples, and forts, eat some superb coastal food, and enjoy spectacular sea views. Hedvi is one such spot. The kilometer-long Hedvi coastline is a C-shaped run of sheer cliffs of black rock, locally known as katal - which is distinctive from the more common red jambha stone along the rest of the coastline.

Hedvi is well known for its Dashabhuja Ganapati temple. The temple is situated in a thick forest, which makes it cool and pleasant even in mid afternoon. Another must-see here is Baman Ghala (ghala means a deep crack). The 3 ft wide and 30 - 40 ft deep crack at one end of the Hedvi cliff, is a fascinating geological feature. When the tide is low, one can see the humongous cave that the sea has carved out below the crack. During high tide, there is a grand spectacle: the waves crash inside with a characteristic boom and the water spurts out of the crack with amazing force, sometimes as high as 30 - 35 feet! A word of caution: the crack looks deceptively narrow, and a few daredevils have tried to leap over it; such acts of bravado have only ended in tragedy. However, there is ample space and points from where one can safely watch and photograph the spectacular sight.

Just beyond the crack is another rock cave, which has unique small pits all along its walls, almost like a huge, over-sized golf ball.

An early morning walk along the cliffs, especially when the tide is high, is an exhilarating experience, with the sea below playfully covering you with a fine spray. Another good time is full moon night. With the sound of the roaring high tide and the sight of the distant lighthouse of Jaigad, it is a magical experience indeed.

All along the coast are suru (casuarina) trees, planted to break the direct onslaught of strong sea winds. Behind the suru are toddy-palm plantations. An early morning glass of neera tastes like nectar here! It is also fascinating to watch the tapping of toddy.

You can stay very close to the beach, at the clean and spacious Suruchi Resort (also known as Bhatkar Lodge), which provides basic amenities. Alternatively, you could stay near the temple at the Bhakta Niwas. Do remember to carry your torch along - electricity is unreliable here.

Any time is a good time to visit Hedvi. However, January-February is a great time, when the Mango trees are flowering - the fragrance is quite intoxicating. Another good time is towards the end of the monsoons. The cloud formations during sunrise and sunset are simply mesmerising. Another point to factor in is the lunar cycle - the same spot looks very different during high tide and low tide.

As for reaching Hedvi on your own, the following routes are motorable: Pune - Bhor - Varanda Ghat - Mahad - Chiplun - Guhagar Road - Modaka Aagar Phata - and then 30 km to Hedvi. The other is Pune - Karad - Koyna Nagar - Chiplun - Abloli phata - Hedvi. This route is not recommended for night travel. Though the roads are in good condition, some of the stretches are a bit lonely. If one wants to take the State Transport bus, then it is Pune - Chiplun - Guhagar and then a shared auto to Hedvi.

The quiet hospitality of the people of Konkan, the starlit heavens, the majestic sea…that's what it's all about!

Bhushan Bhagwat